Kenya has emerged as the largest importer of second-hand clothes in Africa, surpassing Nigeria, according to the latest trade data compiled by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). The country imported second-hand clothes and textiles worth $298 million in 2023, a 12.45% increase from 2022.

This development has raised concerns about the impact on Kenya's local textile industry, which has been struggling to revive itself. The influx of cheap second-hand clothes has made it difficult for local manufacturers to compete, leading to a decline in the industry's growth. According to Tobias Alando, the Chief Executive Officer of the Kenya Association of Manufacturers, "I think we have not been intentional about growing the textile sector."

The imports of second-hand clothes in Kenya are categorized into various types, including underwear, dresses, shirts, trousers, jackets, and shoes. Additionally, other used textiles such as bedding, towels, curtains, fabric scraps, and industrial rags also enter the country. The demand for these products is expected to rise further after Parliament removed two key taxes, making it cheaper to import second-hand clothes.

In contrast, neighboring countries such as Uganda, Rwanda, and Ethiopia have introduced restrictions on second-hand clothing to promote local manufacturing. These countries have raised tariffs, introduced incentives to boost domestic textile production, and banned the importation of used clothes to protect their local industries. Kenya's reliance on the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which grants duty-free access to the US market, has complicated the situation, as the country must permit the importation of mitumba to maintain its AGOA privileges.

The issue of second-hand clothes has sparked debates among Kenyan policymakers and economists. Supporters argue that second-hand clothes provide an affordable alternative for consumers who cannot afford new garments. However, opponents contend that the influx of used clothing has devastated the local textile and apparel industry, which has the potential to generate millions of jobs, from cotton farming to textile manufacturing and retail.

The Kenyan government has attempted to revive the textile sector through various initiatives, including the Bottom-Up Economic Transformation Agenda and the National Cotton, Textile, and Apparel (CTA) Policy 2024. The government plans to establish textile value-addition centers, construct new ginneries, and modernize existing ones to improve raw material processing. Additionally, it intends to launch international campaigns promoting Kenyan-made textiles and apparel while addressing unfair trade practices affecting the industry.

Despite these efforts, the dominance of second-hand clothes in the market remains a significant challenge. The government's decision to remove taxes on second-hand clothes has been criticized by manufacturers, who argue that it will make it even harder for local industries to compete. As Kenya struggles to balance its desire to promote local manufacturing with its need to maintain its AGOA privileges, the fate of its textile industry remains uncertain.

The implications of Kenya's position as the largest importer of second-hand clothes in Africa are far-reaching. The country's textile industry is not only a significant contributor to its economy but also a source of employment for millions of people. As the industry continues to struggle, the impact on the economy and the people will be significant. It remains to be seen how the Kenyan government will address this issue and find a balance between promoting local manufacturing and maintaining its AGOA privileges.